Give Yungang half a day, and start at the far end of the cliff

Fifty-three caves, fifty thousand figures, cut in the fifth century when Indian and Central Asian styles were becoming Chinese. The famous seated Buddha of Cave 20 sits in the open air; the painted caves either side of it are what people remember. Buses run from the city, sixteen kilometres east. Walk to the far end first and work back — everyone starts at the near caves and bunches there — and bring a torch for the dim interiors, or use a phone screen rather than a flash.