Kumbum early in the morning, when the pilgrims outnumber the visitors

One of the six great Gelug monasteries sits 25 kilometres south-west of the city, at Lushar. Buses run from the south bus station and take about an hour; go for opening, when the halls smell of butter lamps and the prostrating pilgrims are at the stupas. Dress modestly, ask before photographing anyone, and follow the walkways clockwise as everyone else does. Staying the night in Lushar buys you the monastery at dawn and a quieter dinner than the city.